My Trip to Lebanon: Clouded Sunrise

Arriving Beirut Airport. (My photo)

Note: Here is Part 1.

After arriving at the horribly up-kept, technologically deficient, and extremely small Beirut Airport, we made our way to family who greeted us with hugs and kisses. Once all luggages was packed in the car we drove down the main highway out of the airport. I greeted the country with feelings of joy to be back but caution to memories that seemed a century old since the 6 years I’ve been gone. In return, Lebanon greeted me with the horribly strong smell of goat and sheep manure that lay in the fields across the highway; my brother and I laughed as it brought back the memories of good times.

We arrived home at around 2:00 am where I greeted waiting family. Over the next day (Friday 6/24/2011) we would have plenty of visits. The jetlag kept us up till 5 am, where I watched the sunrise over the country. I was hoping for a bright beginning to my first day back in Lebanon.

My first sunrise. (My Photo)

As friends and family came to visit, the conversation at each time, reverted back to the politics of the country as well as the region; unfortunately, here, religion is deeply embedded in politics.

I learned of the chaos and divisiveness that existed throughout and after the 2006 war and later battles between factions. During the time that we left for the US, sectarian fighting had broken out specifically where my neighborhood as groups of men attacked people from a certain religious group that they disliked. It’s horrifying to think that neighbors immediately become enemies after some leaders say the wrong things.

The conversation turned to Syria as people told us of how they think things are going great in our sister nation. Others in the conversation emphasized how strong pro-Bashar demonstrations were in the capital. As we listened to how positive life in Syria was, images of dying Syrians from videos on Youtube raced through my head; despite this, I decided not to interject and call Bullshit because I wanted to be an observer of the mindset and conversations in the country, without saying anything to skew the raw emotions and loyalties. I quickly discovered that such conversation is common among those that support Syrian policy in Lebanon; they need Syria to stay strong to support their own goals (whether they are right or wrong). It only seems natural that supporters point to pro-dictator demonstrations as they did in Libya, Egypt and Yemen.

I took this picture as the nation watched his speech (My photo)

  Conversation quickly changed when we heard that an important speech was going to be broadcast on TV.

I sat in our living room as the nation watched Al Sayyed Hassan Nasrallah, leader of Hezbollah – deemed as a terrorist organization by the U.S. and Israel- address the country about several spies caught within their ranks in line with the CIA and IDF. The leader announced that all three men confessed being paid by the CIA to gather information for them. Being more skeptical, I questioned the legitimacy of the claim; I was concerned that the announcement was just an effort to refresh support to fight an eternal enemy, until I realized that they had no vested interest in randomly making such an announcement. I was also reminded of the time when a relative told me that they had gotten a call by an automated system offering them 1 million dollars to be Israeli spies. It shouldn’t be a surprise that as enemies, Hezbollah, Israel and the US would have intelligence wars working underneath the tables.

As the baby-faced militant leader speaks, it becomes directly clear how much this man is loved and admired by millions but also greatly despised by others. He tries to build much needed unity by discussing the nation’s enemy: Israel.

(Translation): “It is clear why the Israel has done this. For the past 3 years Israel has become blind and weak when it comes to their intelligence. Because of this, it went to the CIA. A global network, the CIA could be relied on, and so, they went to a big organization to use it to get information.”

Although not close to the brink of collapse as a leader, Al Sayyed is playing on the fears of the Lebanese and Arabs to reassert his strength. This was echoed in Yemen, Jordan, Syria, Egypt, Tunisia, and Libya; the difference is that here, more than anywhere else outside Palestine, it is true. It is no secret that Israel wants this old bearded man dead as well as his organization; maintaining unity and trust amongst his ranks is extremely important.

I zoned out for the rest of his speech as I remembered previous comments by the militant leader showing his support of protesters throughout the Middle East, except interestingly enough, in Syria. It seems that no one is free of hypocrisy. The United States only supports democratic reforms when they must, Iran only seems to support it because the U.S. doesn’t, and even smaller leaders pick and choose which rebellions to consider legitimate and which are lead by “spies.”

Later that night I engaged the younger generation (my own) about the politics of the region. Here I found much more skepticism toward traditional religious loyalties although I have no doubt that there are hundreds of thousands of children being taught what to think and who to support rather than how to think and how to determine who to support.

As we discussed the Syrian uprisings, feelings were mixed on the subject. A few were worried of U.S./Israeli influence and benefits from a weaker Syria. To them, I reminded them that Al-Assad has been one of the greatest guarantees of border peace for Israel in the region; Israel doesn’t want him out. As for the US, the Obama administration was hoping to put out a hand to him to get him to move away from Iran, which explains their fatally late response to the 1000+ deaths already served by the regime; with such massive protests, the US had no choice but to support change.

Others stood wholeheartedly with the Syrians and their demands for freedom. They questioned whether fear of Israeli benefits was worth the self-evident human rights that should be guaranteed to all people, Syrians included. It was a point well made, but the conversation persisted.

In such a region there is so much that goes on behind the scenes. The three spies announced today had been in captivity for 3-5 months. There is far too much hidden for such young people to develop informed opinions on all the different issues in Lebanon and the region but, thankfully, it never seems to stop them.

It is Saturday, 6/25/2011 at 4:54 am and in 6 mins I will have spent exactly 24 hours since the sun rose beyond the distant hills. My first full day back in Lebanon has been enjoyable as I met with family and friends, yet the even people in the country seem as divided as ever on support for the freedom of their own brothers and sisters just a border away despite unanimous support for protesters in nations less invested in Lebanon. With sectarian divides still fresh, my initial hope for a bright day with the sunrise seems easily dashed aside. 

You can get all these page updates by "Liking" the Facebook blog page! here : http://on.fb.me/hWYYmi or by following me on Twitter! http://bit.ly/fIU3d7 Please Share on your network, email, comment or subscribe!